Saturday, 14 July 2012

Brussels... bon chocolat, bon amis, et une blanchisserie!!!

Brussels, the capital of Belgium, was my next stop, and with Ali still in tow, we headed back across the English Channel in search of warmer weather, cheaper coffee, and after two weeks of taking it easy – another foreign language to deal with! Brussels is a big, bustling capital city – and with a central location within Europe, it also the capital of the European Union (EU), and home to the North Atlantic Treaty Organisation (NATO).




We arrived in Brussels late in the afternoon, and with no accommodation booked, no idea how to get into the city, and no plans for what we were to achieve in the next couple of days, we let chance and luck play a big role in determining our adventures. Taking refuge from the rain in a sandwich shop (the warm weather plan wasn’t so successful yet), I made the most of the free internet, booking a hotel in the city (living it up!), and once the rain had calmed its onslaught, set out in search of our accommodation. Of course, I don’t want to talk myself up too much, however sometimes… I am bloody good!!! With absolutely no knowledge of the city, no planning, and no idea what I was doing, I had miraculously managed to book a room at the hotel directly across the street from the sandwich shop, just 20m from where we were sitting!

Waffles!!!
Of course, the word ‘hotel’ hasn’t appeared too much in this blog, or in my life in the last few months, and I had no intention of wasting the opportunity to enjoy a private room, a clean ensuite and a comfortable bed! Within minutes of walking in the room, Ali and I had both begun some kind of territorial ritual, completely upending and emptying our bags of all of their filthy well-worn clothes, rank, wet-dog smelling bath-towel (okay, that was only me…), and various other items we have picked up along the way, completely covering every available surface, and leaving the room resembling some sort of Indian laundry, strewn with our clothes in varying states of filth and revulsion. With this initial ritual now complete, it was time to move on to phase two of our moving-in process, and still surrounded by our laundry and possessions, we settled down for a couple of rounds of ‘Crappy-Joe’ and ‘Bush-Rummy’ – and thanks to the recent arrival of a ‘Survival Pack’ from my mum back home – a packet of much longed for Fruchocs!!!

Heading out later in the night (it was time to walk-off the Fruchocs, and I swear Ali was cheating at cards… she kept winning!), we made our way through the very affluent shopping malls and boutiques of the city, window-shopping the latest fashions and trends (way out of my price range!), and made the first of quite a few visits to a Belgian chocolate shop – just to help wash the Fruchocs down!!! The history of the city dates back to the 6th century, and remains of the 14th century city walls can still be seen around the city today. It’s central location within Europe, and location on the (now covered) River Senne made Brussels a major European trading city, and today the city offers a great mix of old and new, with bustling malls, parks and gardens, and more chocolate shops than I can even begin to count!

The next morning, luck was on our side yet again, and while the weather was still looking quite dreary, and our laundry situation looking the same, I managed to get in touch with Amy (aka Olga’s bunk mate on the Trans Mongolian), who lives in Brussels, and I am sure had absolutely nothing better to do than have two Aussies sleep on her floor for the next couple of nights. Amy, who originally comes from Canada, has lived in French-speaking Brussels for over two years now, working in a job she has explained to me multiple times, and no matter how hard I try, I can never explain as well as she does. Pretty much she works really hard all week, rubs twitter-shoulders with all the famous world photographers and visionaries, and then spends her weekends no doubt hoping weary backpackers will knock on her door, make the most of her hospitality and French language skills, and then eat delicious, fatty, amazing, gooey Belgian waffles and chocolate together. How very lucky Amy is that I decided to drop in!!!

After a rather dramatic Laundromat experience, in which the police were called in to take away ‘Louis’, the charming Belgian man who had decided Ali’s washing machine (with her clothes already inside…) was the perfect place to publicly display his incontinence issues, we met up with Amy on our second afternoon in Brussels. Dropping our luggage off at her place, she wasted no time introducing us to the European drinking culture, taking us straight to a public park, where the antics of the night began. In what must be one of the only European parks where you are actually allowed to sit on the grass, we spent the next couple of hours catching up on our post-Olga lives, marvelling at both Ali and Amy’s educational achievements (I wasn’t so involved in this part… hmm…), and the wonderful, always-pleasant weather in Brussels. Having reinforced our classy image with the public park drinking, we headed off into the city to further improve the Australian image with street-vendor waffles (which Ali spilt on the ground, and I spilt all over my face), where we walked the city streets and saw the famous Manneken Pis statue, before heading out for an midnight dinner La Regence – Amy’s local eatery.

Ali gets into breakfast!
The next morning Ali and I ventured out to see the city, enjoying an ‘interesting’ Belgian breakfast, walking the quaint streets and marketplaces of the city, and getting lost in the particularly attractive industrial/transport area – obviously a highlight of our time. After an ‘antipasto crepe’ lunch, we explored the old city district, visiting yet more chocolate shops, biscuit shops and coffee shops, before Ali worked her medical-magic, accompanying me to a selection of pharmacies in search of the perfect concoction of medications to ensure the success of my upcoming flight back to Australia. What a girl! The afternoon took a rather exciting turn when a leisurely stroll through the old town was briefly interrupted by a pack of naked cyclists, riding through the city in all their glory, many of perched atop the seat of the readily available ‘Public Hire’ bikes… something to note if you ever intend to hire a bike in Brussels!


Yet again luck (for us at least!) was on our side on our second night with Amy, and as the good house guests we are, Amy was off to dinner with her friend Anders… so we invited ourselves along! The dinner was held at a local community-centre/inner-city-shop front/organic-vege-garden/whatever, and is run roughly every month as a casual community event, in an effort to bring people together, and showcase organic, vegetarian food and cooking. The whole event was simply amazing!


Amy and Anders - thanks for having us to dinner!!!
The community centre is in an old retail shop-front, which has been converted into a cosy dining area which overlooks the rear vegetable garden, and is filled with mismatched furniture, artwork, and information on everything permaculture and organi-culture related (I made that word up!). The back garden is not only used to grow a selection of fruits and vegetables, but also serves as the men’s restroom – why pay for fertiliser when you can get it for free???


The dinner started off with hors d’œuvres; aubergine, courgette, paprika and parmesan bruschetta, topped with sesame seeds and swimming in the most glorious huile de sésame known to mankind, before we moved onto fresh bread and organique salade, and washed it all down with a glass or two of local vino. Already full, but keen to continue gorging myself, main course was served – sauteéd haloumi on a bed of betterave and quino, with radish salade and baked polenta, drizzled with a rouille to make any MasterChef contestant proud! A dessert of poire and framboise crisp with rosemary ensured I was well and truly full, and after demonstrating my deli-standard dishwashing skills, it was time to hit the Portuguese dance party, and shake some of the calories off!




While we had a great few days in Brussels, I am disappointed to report our visit ended up smuggler-free (it’s a real bonding experience for all involved!). Up early the next morning, it was time to once again say goodbye to Amy. Heading to the bus station, and after one final Boulangerie breakfast, it was time for Ali and I to go our separate ways too, as I made my way to Frankfurt for a midnight flight to Australia, and Ali set off to Wimbeldon up the rest of her European adventure in London!


Dinner is served!
"Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the 'Titanic' who waved off the dessert cart."

Emma Bombeck

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